Live from Azamara Quest: The Magic of Venice and Birthdays
It seems many people choose their cruise dates around events, such as birthdays, anniversaries, etc. While this cruise date wasn't in my control, I was none-the-less excited when I saw I'd be in one of my favorite cities for my birthday. What better place to celebrate!
After arriving back to the ship following my adventures in Siena and Verona, and finding my cabin decorated by my cabin butler, Danny, I headed back out to spend the afternoon and evening in Venice.
Purchasing a 24-hour vaporetto pass, I made the traditional trek down to St. Mark's Square. Had to. I think it's the law somewhere that all tourists must start there. I'm not a fan of the square during the day, preferring to avoid the crowds when possible, but I was on a mission: for my birthday, I wanted to start out by sitting on the steps surrounding the square, eating a wonderful gelato from Cafe Aurora.
That mission accomplished, I then started my wanderings out from the square. A bit of shopping at stores remembered from previous visits, a bit of browsing, and lots of aimless wandering to see what I'd come across; the very best way to experience Venice.
A few hours later, it was time to meet friends from the ship for the first of the official birthday activities. I'd arranged with Alessandro Schezzini (venische@libero.it) a Rick Steves' recommended guide, to do a "pub crawl tour" in the evening. While it was Sunday, not a good night for it as most locals' pubs are closed, I still wanted to see what we could do.
In Venice, locals traditionally go to local pubs after work for wine and chicetti, heavy appetizers such as fried cheese and anchovies, calamari and assorted other goodies Venetians sometimes use as a light dinner.
Alessandro met us at the Rialto Bridge, and the 13 of us set out. We didn't have to go far from the heavily touristed Rialto to be in the "real" neighborhoods with nary a tourist in sight, but with lots of free-flowing wine and chicetti. The wine was local, organic, without sulfates, and delicious.
After enjoying nearly an hour here, regaled by information from Alessandro on Venice, history, living conditions and general tidbits, along with much joviality from the group, we were off to the second pub. Much smaller, but also busier with locals, we repeated the experience shoulder-to-shoulder with Venetians coming in for a bite and some wine. Traditionally, Venetians enjoy the pubs standing up, eat-drink-and-run, but Alessandro had arranged for us to have a table so we could take a slower pace.
A final pub was traditional style, standing outside at the bar, and once again was delicious, entertaining and informative.
It was with regret at 8P that we bade goodbye to Alessandro. I highly recommend his services for the pub crawl, but would also suggest him for daytime tours as well. His knowledge of Venice is excellent, and if you're looking for a walking tour, something a bit out of the ordinary, email him to see what he can create for you. Just know he doesn't stroll along - his stride is long and purposeful. But he does slow it down a bit for short-legged birthday girls.
My dream in planning the evening in Venice was to ring in my birthday at midnight in St. Mark's. In the evening, after the day-trippers have left, it's a much different place altogether. There are dueling orchestras playing across the square from in front of the classic cafes, and tourists at night take on a different pace and style.
When I stayed in Venice previously my hotel, the Locanda Orseolo, was located off the square but close enough that at night I could hear the deep bells of St. Mark's tolling the hours. It is my favorite memory and sound of Venice, along with the sounds of the morning deliveries of supplies from boats in the canals. So of course what better way to celebrate the official beginning of my birthday?
After convincing a couple of companions from the cruise and pub crawl group to join me, we headed to the classic and most famous Venice cafe, Cafe Florian. Ridiculously expensive, though with excellent quality and decent service, it has long been the "to be seen" place in Venice, even for locals. Of course, when the locals strive to impress, they entertain guests inside the Cafe, while the tourists mostly remain outside, but never mind those small details. I wanted the outside atmosphere, listening to the Florian's orchestra, and hearing the music from across the square as well, all the while being gawked at by the tourists standing just beyond the tables seeking a free concert (as I've done many times).
The Prosecco was luscious, and more than one bottle graced our table. Bar snacks of peanuts and olives kept our noshies at bay, and sparkling water refreshed us. Finishing off the evening with some Sambuca was the perfect compliment. Tipped off by my friends, the orchestra even played Happy Birthday for me.
Starting a few minutes prior to midnight, the Campanile bells sounded, followed by other church bells farther off (Italian time, after all, isn't as exact as in other parts of the world). But the main event for me, the Bells of St. Mark's, started right on time, deep and sonorous, tolling in the start of yet another amazing year to come. I closed my eyes and let the sound wash over me, feeling the reverberations not just in my ears but also my soul. I do so love Italy.
It was time to close up shop and head back to the ship. Taking the #2 vaporetto back to Piazzale Roma at night is a very different ride than mid-day, much quicker, but also in some ways seeing a different Venice lit up at night. A quick cab to the ship and we were back by... 1:30AM. Walking along the dock to the embarkation ramp, we saw a crew party in full swing in the crew quarters and were glad we weren't the only ones enjoying life at the wee hours.
The next morning dawned hot and humid, and after an alarm-less awakening (alarms and birthdays just shouldn't go together), and leisurely shower, decided to enjoy the ship for the day, writing the Siena and Verona blogs while they were somewhat fresh in my mind and while the mood struck. It was a short day in Venice anyway, departing at 1P, and there was nothing further I really wanted to explore this trip, so more will have to wait until the inevitable future visit.
Sailaway from Venice is just as beautiful and magical as arrival by ship, though seeing St. Mark's completely jammed with tourists did make me cringe a bit. I'll just treasure my evening memories and know that for me they represent the real St. Mark's and always will.
Another positive aspect of cruising solo revealed itself that evening, as new found friends invited me to Prime C, one of the two specialty restaurants onboard. There had been several options to celebrate my birthday night, but how could I turn down Prime C?
I find cruising to be one of the best ways to travel solo. Socializing is easy if you want, you can have as much private time as you wish, and other passengers are eager to include you if you reach out at all.
I think you'd have to agree, a pretty terrific birthday. And the cruise is not yet over!
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