The Galapagos Wrap-Up

You’ve been waiting for this. And finally… the last installment of my “Not Quite Live from the Celebrity Xpedition” blog. It’s been such a busy time this past week or so, I didn’t want this to get lost in the rush of other news and sales.

Some closing thoughts. The crew was terrific overall. I can’t say enough about the naturalists, especially. They really know their stuff, and care. Each has their different strengths. Some have a slower pace, some make sure you see more – you get to know which are your personal favorites throughout the week. Do go with a variety – you’ll learn something different and get a different perspective from each one.

Pack next to nothing. There’s an inexpensive laundry onboard. Make use of it. You really only need shorts and shirts for the day, very casual in the evening – everyone repeats and no one cares. I did find that changing my shirt from morning to afternoon made it more comfortable, so take enough for a 2-3 days, and just send out the laundry 2-3 times. A couple light slacks or skirts and tops for the evening is plenty.

Make sure your camera gear is all set. If you shoot a DSLR, consider renting a longer lens if you don’t have one in your kit. (I really like the folks at http://www.lensrentals.com/.) Have lots of batteries and memory cards. While you can download to a disc onboard, you don’t want to risk the burn being bad or similar – keeping the images on your cards until you return home is the safer way to do it. People with compacts can get some very nice pictures on this trip – don’t feel the need to buy a whole new setup if you won’t use it otherwise. It is more important to know your camera than to have something “good” you don’t have the faintest clue how to use.

Food ranges from good to excellent. Since it is all locally sourced, sometimes it has a different flavor than you’re used to. If you’re a fish eater, I highly recommend the fish entrees, especially at dinner. Any chance you get to eat Ecuadoran food, take it – it’s wonderful! I long for the various types of Ecuadoran breads I ate during my stay. Dinner can sometimes be a bit slow after the evening lecture, but it’s a wonderful socializing time. Remember, the wine is included.

The crew is all local. While they may not be as polished as you’ll find on one of the other Celebrity ships, they’re every bit as warm and friendly. Because they’re local, their knowledge and expertise are a wonderful compliment. Celebrity touches are everywhere, and the crew really cares that you have a remarkable time.

Your fellow passengers will add a lot to this experience. This is the type of trip where you become true friends. The nature of this trip lends itself to some pretty deep bonding over the shared experiences you have. Because of this, it’s perfectly appropriate for solo cruisers, though there are almost never reduced supplements, unfortunately. Friends, families and couples all mingle well onboard. There are typically a lot of families onboard during holiday periods – Christmas, spring break and summer. Think of this as a moving, living science lab for your children. Very young children aren’t really appropriate, but older elementary and above do quite well, of course depending on the child. Just remember, there aren’t a lot of onboard diversions on the ship itself.

The friends I made on this trip were an essential part of how this affected me. There is so much to see, learn and experience, and the shared experiences and discussions lead to greater understanding. But the fun also was a huge part. When you’re having such significant experiences, laughter is essential. I met and began to know some very special people on this journey, and I want to thank them. I hope you’ll have a similar experience when you go. Seek out the interactions, find people with whom you can bond. This ship and experience make it easy, and you’ll be glad you did.

If you’re so inclined, and the weather permits, consider sleeping at least one night up on the top deck. Even for just part of the night. It’s spectacular – you won’t believe how many stars you see. It’s so peaceful, but you’ll hear the sea life attracted to the boat, the ocean, and you’ll have a chance to just absorb everything you’ve experienced. The lounges are comfy, but be sure to either bring up a blanket or dress warmly – it does get chilly.

I highly recommend taking the Celebrity package of at least 10 nights. While it is possible to get yourself to Baltra to catch the ship, it is nice to have the time in Quito, and to have the chartered flights with everything taken care of. It really makes a difference I think. I understand that they’ve changed the pre-cruise tour to allow for a couple options – in addition to the city tour I described earlier, they also now have a couple other choices. Bravo, Celebrity!

Do consider doing a pre-cruise trip to Machu Picchu as well. I recommend pre-cruise, as your body will likely handle the altitude better at the start of the trip rather than at the end. But post-cruise is also a good option. In other words – while you’re in the area, go to Machu Picchu! Either through Celebrity or a package arranged on your own – it’s fairly easily done. Celebrity, of course, does it all first class, including the Hiram Bingham Orient Express train.

I’ve been asked to compare Antarctica and Galapagos by many of my clients, especially since I traveled to both in a close period of time. Which do I prefer? I can’t say one over the other – I think both are essential experiences for an adventurer. But they’re very different. Antarctica hit me emotionally, while Galapagos, though emotional, was more an intellectual shock to the system. Antarctica is sweeping and beautiful and personal with the penguins. South America ranges from urban to rough and rugged. But it’s more visual and grand. Galapagos is intensely personal, challenging your preconceptions, and touching your soul in a raw way. I’ve used raw frequently, possibly overusing it, but it’s the word which best describes these islands. They’re not pure, as you’ll learn, but they’re not tamed, either. What you see is the power of nature at work. In a way you can’t experience anywhere else in the world. You realize you don’t know as much as you think you do until you immerse yourself into it in person.

Which would I recommend doing first? Both are threatened, by different processes. Antarctic access is likely to become more limited in the years ahead if the Antarctic Treaty Organization has its way. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a dramatically reduced number of visitors mandated in the next few years. And of course, there are the constantly changing climatic issues at work here, too.

Galapagos access is tightly controlled by the Ecuadoran government, and there are signs that, while tourism is an important aspect to these islands, the government may more tightly control that as well. Celebrity has an excellent relationship with the government, but of course people in power come and go, and that can change. I think Celebrity is one of the operators most likely to have an ongoing permit to operate in these waters, as they’ve carefully cultivated their relationship, but as the government looks at restricting access further, this will serve to make the Galapagos far more expensive and difficult to do.

What does this all mean? I recommend putting both these locations high on your “must do soon” list, rather than your “someday I want to go” list. They’re worth making the effort and sacrifices to do sooner, rather than later. Which one you do first is up to you – timing and circumstances will dictate that to a certain extent, especially since Antarctica is only a seasonal option.

As many of you know, I travel broadly. I do my best to keep exploring new territory. I rarely repeat. I always have new priorities moving to the top of my list as I mark off one destination. However, both these locations I’m repeating – Antarctica in January, 2009, and Galapagos in 2010. It takes something very special to make me want to go back that quickly. Galapagos is THAT amazing. Every time you go it will be different. I want to see it again, learn more from it. And I want to do it on Celebrity.

Has this whet your appetite for the Galapagos? Want to go with me? I’m returning in April, 2010 to be exact. In time for the Waved Albatross migration, still with warm waters and dry weather. Come with me? If you’re interested, the flyer can be found at: Celebrity Xpedition April 2010. Give me a call or email me with questions or to book into this group! Because this is more of a once-in-a-lifetime trip for most, I’ve booked it a bit farther out than usual to give you time to save and plan. I also wanted to be sure to go at the optimum time.

Join me! See that what I’ve talked about and posted is just the tip of the iceberg. Live for yourself the moving experiences I’ve described, and come to your own understandings and realizations about raw, unfiltered nature.

If you’ve missed any part of this blog series, the full series, with larger pictures, has been compiled and can be found at Not Quite Live from Celebrity Xpedition

Sad Farewells to Galapagos

Sunday. That worst day of a trip. Time to pack up to start the journey home. To leave new friends and shared experiences. And start the transition back to the “real world.” (Though I can’t imagine anywhere more “real” than the Galapagos.)

As with everything else about this trip, the tendering ashore and procedures went smoothly. Luggage put out the night before to be ferried ashore by the zodiacs. Hand luggage with us. Breakfast, then waiting in the lounge for the transfers. Hugs goodbye to the crew. Watching regretfully as the crew prepares for the next set of adventurers.

Upon arrival at the airport, the normal “hurry up and wait” of this type of situation was apparent. We had a bit of time to shop at the stalls set up. If you want to get a “Galapagos” stamp in your passport, the vendors have it and are happy to oblige. Once the group is checked in, you’re given your boarding pass and put in a special line to get through security (where you are inspected to make sure you aren’t removing anything from the islands – sorry, no baby sea lions, blue footed boobies, iguanas or baby tortoises to take home with you). Celebrity has arranged for access to the VIP lounge, where you can purchase beverages and wait with other groups, such as Lindblad. Do know that this lounge has ceiling fans, but no air conditioning, and got quite hot in the mid-day sun.

Once aboard the plane, the wonderful amenities noted on the way out were, of course, in evidence again. A quick stop in Quayaquil to refuel (there is no refueling in the Galapagos) and to drop off those lucky passengers who purchased the post-cruise tour to Machu Picchu, then on to Quito and the Marriott again.

There is an afternoon excursion to a local market, followed by a group dinner at the hotel. I understand both were quite nice, but a bit lightly attended, as many of us had picked up a nasty respiratory bug onboard. I finally succumbed to it that evening, spiking a very high fever and being generally miserable. Room service was a welcome option, and I took full advantage of it. I did miss out on being able to say goodbye to some people who had become extremely good friends in a very short time, as we were on different flights the next day, but due to some delays by American Airlines the next morning, it ended up I got to hug them both there and in Miami.

I want to be VERY clear that the virus wasn’t from the ship – it’s not a “sick” ship in any way. This was obviously a flu virus which had come onboard with a passenger, then transferred around as such viruses tend to do. It was the height of a nasty flu season, and it just happened to hit many of us, even though we’d had our flu shots. I think everyone in our smaller group who spent time together all week ended up with it, either onboard or once we returned home. No fun, and I was sorry it wiped me out of a few excursions, but such is the way of things. I also sometimes have to take a day or part-day off from active schedules, but as you see, that in no way changed my overall experience. While I didn’t get to do *everything* on this trip, it didn’t matter in the least. This is an amazing voyage.

I also say this so that those of you who might not be in the best physical shape, or may have some limitations, know you can do this trip as well. While you do need to be able to get into and out of a zodiac, and climb some stairs, the crew does assist, and the low intensity options are often available for you. I’ve had clients who had very restricted mobility who have taken this trip, did the low intensity options only, and had a wonderful time. If you have specific questions about your situation, let me know. Most of the excursions aren’t physically difficult, but some can be long and hot or more challenging. Now that I’ve been, I know better how to advise you if you’re unsure.

One last submission to go – stay with me! Due to the World’s Largest Cruise Sale, I’m going to postpone the final installment to next week. You definitely don’t want to miss it – it’s chalk full of information on logistics, hints and tricks…but there’s also an exciting announcement! Thanks for staying with me so long, and keep watching!

Birth, Death and Survival in the Galapagos

Saturday. Our last full day in the Galapagos. And Santa Cruz Island, where Puerto Ayora is the main settlement in the Galapagos. A chance to go up to the Highlands to try to see tortoises, and a visit to the Darwin Station. Also the opportunity to do a bit of shopping or internet in town over lunch if you desire.

Beware, however, of one thing. While we had fairly calm seas all week, with only a couple rough nights, the night before we landed in Puerto Ayora was difficult because of significant rolling action of the ship. Not because of the seas while we were underway, but once we anchored outside the harbor. From what I could gather from the crew, this is fairly common, as there are two different currents which cross in the anchoring zone, and as the tides change, the ship gets buffeted pretty heavily. I spent the night bracing myself in bed, and I know I wasn’t the only one who had to work not to get tossed out.

I opted to go to Darwin Station early in the morning. I had heard that “Lonely George” was often more active in the morning, and I wanted to see the celebrity tortoise, reportedly the last of his species.

As we walked into the Station in the early morning, our Cruise Director Jason was our group’s naturalist and was explaining further about the activities and research of the station, when suddenly we were brought up short by another example of the rawness and basic nature of the Galapagos. In the path in front of us were two eggs, which had either been pushed out of the nest, or had been grabbed out by some predator. Both were cracked open. One wasn’t very well developed, and mostly looked like a regular egg with yolk broken open. But the other chick was almost full-grown, though not quite ready to hatch on its own. The baby had crawled away from the remnants of the egg, and was struggling to survive, even though it was obvious he was dying. It was highly emotional to watch. Some in our group wanted to put him out of his pain, but Jason wouldn’t let us. He reminded us this was part of the cycle, and that perhaps the chick would serve as food to a predator, and if we killed it, we would be removing that opportunity for anything other than a scavenger who ate carrion.

Several of us cried at this sight. Yes, it was just a chick. But to watch its struggle, trying so hard to find a way to survive, and know that there was nothing we could or should do, touched deeply. I declined to take a picture, as I felt that was too personal and too intrusive… and a bit too macabre. But the image of that tiny baby, without feathers or fluff, completely helpless, struggling along the path, will be with me forever, and along with all the triumphant moments and beauty, will be part of my Galapagos memory.

It’s part of the reason I say the Galapagos affected me not just emotionally, but also intellectually. You get hit by these moments. It’s not a trip for the squeamish, but it is a trip for those who want to see something more real than a zoo, more personal than a day trip or view from a ship. Your opinions about right or wrong in the natural world get challenged if you let them. It changes you.

But back to the Station. There’s a lot of fun here. You get to see the tortoises from quite young in group pens (separated by species) to the very old in their own habitats. Some are wandering around the paths, others are in closed pens. They do active breeding here, to return the tortoises to their native islands when possible, or to conserve the species until their numbers are sufficient to consider repatriation, or until the hazards on their native islands are removed. Each island has a different species which is endemic to that island. The differences are seen in their shells primarily. Those which live in the brush have high domed shells to push through the underbrush. Those living in the highlands have high arches in the front of their shells and very long necks, all the better to reach up into the trees to graze. Darwin did note some of these differences, but they really didn’t play as much a factor in his writings about the islands as did the birds.

Some very young tortoises.


A highland species – note the high neck arch in the shell.


Faces a mother could love.


You can see why these tortoises were the model for “ET”


We were in luck this morning – Lonesome George was out and active, along with his two female “companions” from similar species.


After years of presuming that George was impotent, even though he mounted the females, it has recently been announced that eggs have been found in the pen in three different nests. They are being incubated, and it’s believed at least some are fertile. While these would not be pure bred of his species, it is a start to preserving his line. With selective breeding, it is hoped a version of his species will continue. In addition, the search for a species-match mate for him continues. One may still exist in a private collection.

After the tour through the grounds, we were set free, to explore further, walk through town, return to the ship if we wished for lunch, or stay in town and await the afternoon groups. Those who did the Darwin Station in the morning could then go up to the Highlands in the afternoon, and those who did the Highlands in the morning would have the Darwin Station in the afternoon. No need to choose between the options today!

The Highlands tour involves a bit of a bus ride (about 30 minutes) up to a “farm” where a hike through sometimes muddy grounds brings the possibility of tortoise sightings. As the name implies, these are truly high lands, with a very different cooler and lush climate. Part of that is the frequent mists in the mountains, hence the muddy grounds. In addition, there’s a lava tube which can be walked through.

Back to the ship to pack and prepare to leave. Before dinner was a farewell toast from the Captain, while afterwards there was a folkloric show put on by the crew.

Speaking of the Captain, I don’t think I’ve mentioned another great feature of being on a ship this size – there’s an open bridge! Except when anchoring, the bridge is available to the passengers. The officers will explain about the navigation, equipment and handling of the ship to anyone interested. I just love that on a ship!

Obviously, we’re nearing the end of the end of these Galapagos blogs. There are two more installments to go, which will be published next week. If there’s anything you’d like me to address, or questions you have, feel free to email me this weekend. You can reach me at amber@cruiseresource.com. After several of you have requested it, I’m also going to open up comments so you can make comments to the blog itself.

Thanks for staying with me this long!

Conservation and Rest

Friday was another quiet day for me, and hence a shorter review as well. The heat from Thursday wore me out a bit, plus whatever bug was working on me. Most people wouldn’t have any problem at all with the heat, but I’m particularly sensitive. So it was mostly a day of rest.

But the rest of the ship enjoyed Santiago and Santa Cruz Islands, much of which focused on Sea Lions, sea life and then birds.

The highlight of the morning was going to some collapsed lava tubes. These are the tubes where the outer edges of a lava flow cooled more quickly than the interior, and through which lava continued to flow. When the lava stopped flowing farther up the tube, the empty tube remained, and in this location, the wave action has collapsed some of them, giving viewers glimpses into the inside.

Many of these are flooded, and are perfect habitats in which turtles and other sea life, including sharks, can swim, and playgrounds for the Galapagos Fur Seals.






Everyone really seemed to love watching these!

Afternoon brought a hike for birds ranging from Darwin Finches to flamingos, followed by a swim and snorkel. Nice way to end the day!

I’ve been a bit negligent in talking about the afternoon lectures and other activities. The lectures have been fabulous. As I mentioned, they started with the geologic formations of the islands, then progressed through human history (including some of the scandals of the Galapagos), history of conservation (explaining the balance of conservation and nature), and even an IMAX presentation on the Galapagos. In concert with the information you receive during the excursions from the guides, these talks really serve to enhance your knowledge of these islands. The lectures weren’t widely attended, as it is the perfect time for an afternoon nap, but were worth sacrificing a nap.

I especially enjoyed the conservation lecture. Jason, our cruise director and lead naturalist, helped to explain the difficulties faced in conserving the indigenous and endemic species and eradicating the species which have been introduced by man. This includes efforts to try to create a poison which would only work for certain species (like rats, for example), and using a “judas goat” to attract all the male goats on an island to one point from which they could be hunted. It’s not easy to listen to efforts to kill animals like this, but by the time this lecture was given, you’ve seen the impacts, whether from a feral cat, or heard how goats were removing essential vegetation, so you’ve begun to understand the necessity. Amazing work being done here by the Darwin Society, and I’m really looking forward to the Darwin Station tomorrow.

In addition, an opportunity is given to donate to the Darwin Society, up to $250/person, and in return, Celebrity will give you a future cruise credit equal to that amount which can be used on a future booking. I do think that a high percentage of those of us on this sailing contributed, and I highly recommend it. After you see all that’s being done, it’s a way to give back to these islands.

Tonight was also movie night – “Winged Migration” – examining the migration of many species of birds. While with the exception of the Waved Albatross, it’s not about the Galapagos, it’s a perfect complement to the overall tone of the week.

Sea Turtle Saviors and Fulfilled Penguin Dreams

Throughout this journey, there are events which either subtly or more strongly assault your intellect. You know coming here that this is all about nature. But most of us are insulated from the realities of nature – the closest we come is a National Geographic special, or perhaps the zoo or what we encounter on hikes near our home. We rarely are brought face-to-face with life and death struggles, and how much animals will sacrifice to maintain the species. In Galapagos, it’s everywhere, and in unexpected ways. Each experience changes you, whether you cheer the triumph, feel for the struggle between endemic and foreign species, or feel your heart pain when the battle is lost.

Today is a triumphant day.

The morning activities were both centered around Bachas Beach, with the option to also head inland on a flamingo search at the brackish ponds. This beach is a turtle nesting site, which ended up to be the focus of the excursion, as the naturalists found a female who was stuck in her struggle to return to the water after her night of laying eggs. While it is prohibited to interfere with animals in the Galapagos, as nature needs to play out in her own way, the naturalists here felt it wasn’t interfering to bring this female out of where she was stuck, so she could then make her own way back to the ocean.

They combined their strength to gently lift and turn her, bringing her to an area where she could, if she wasn’t already too weak, drag herself to the sea. To everyone’s relief and excitement, she immediately started her journey back to the sea. It was a moment of exultation and celebration. She was weak, but she now had a chance!




The afternoon choices were very different, though they all ended with beach/snorkeling time. Those who were fit and eager climbed “to the top” at Bartolome Island, up 358 wooden steps to the top of the island for an incredible view. Not so eager to do the climb? There was a fantastic zodiac option where we circled the island, observing the Galapagos Penguins on the shore, mantas jumping in the distance, and searched for sharks in the shallows. It was an absolutely beautiful boat ride, full of sightings. I think we counted almost all the penguins known to be in the area! What a treat!

After the first half of our excursions, everyone met at the beach to sun, play in the water… or if you were a snorkeler, to go over to Pinnacle Rock to find the penguins. We weren’t disappointed! Because it was late afternoon, the penguins were in and out of the water, hunting and diving, and they were zooming past those who made the swim over to see them.

The personal thrill for me is beyond words. Ever since seeing the penguins in the water from the beach during my Antarctic cruise, I’ve been dreaming of being in the water with them. I feared I’d have to learn how to dry suit dive and brave the Antarctic waters in order to accomplish that, but here was my dream coming true. When I learned there was a chance to snorkel with them I was excited, but the actuality far exceeded my hopes. Not only was I able to see them, they came zooming by me VERY close, and repeatedly. The light was low, the water was murky, but I got some shots which, while technically leaving much to be desired, will continue to make me smile for years to come.

This was Pinnacle Rock itself, with several penguins resting atop it. Sorry for the odd coloring – I had a red filter on my lens to enhance the underwater colors, and it was difficult to get the color correction right for the above-water shots – and it didn’t help at all that we were facing into the setting sun.


Yes, there are several penguins on the rocks. You can make out the one on the left fairly easily, but there were three more in the shadows as well.

Not only were the penguins zooming by, but there was a pelican hunting at the surface as well. Look closely here – you can see the pelican’s beak and feet along with a penguin just coming into the frame in the lower right corner. Both were less than 12” away from my lens.


Because the conditions were so extreme (very dark underwater because of the murk and low light, very bright above with the setting sun), a split shot was not able to be perfectly (or even close to acceptably) exposed. But as bad as these shots are technically, look at what you can see topside and underwater (look closely – there be penguins there!)

A penguin just zooming by – gotta love continuous shooting!





To get a sense of the speed of these penguins, my camera is capable of shooting 3 frames per second. So that series above took less than two seconds for him to completely swim by with me panning as he swam. They’re quick little critters!

For the photographers reading this, yes, I could have used strobes in these shots. But I opted not to, in order to be able to take the faster, continuous images, and also because of all the particulate in the water. Had I been on scuba rather than snorkel, I might have used dual strobes to capture the color better. But at these depths, in these conditions with the fast-moving subjects, I decided this was the better option for me.

Why were the penguins and pelicans here? For the fish of course!





Yup, more penguins in the bottom two shots there.

On the way back to the beach, a couple sharks were also sighted – just small white tips, but exciting none-the-less.

What a day! But it wasn’t over. Tonight, we celebrate a somewhat-traditional Crossing the Line ceremony (though toned down a bit from the more ribald antics common on naval ships). During this cruise, we actually cross the line 4 times, but this particular crossing was timed so we could enjoy and celebrate it after dinner. So much fun! I’ve gone over the equator many times, but never before onboard ship, and was looking forward to the ceremony – it didn’t disappoint! King Neptune, of course, was in evidence, along with his queen, and the antics ensued. At the end, we all got our certificate so we can now say we’ve been inducted into the Society by King Neptune.

This was one of the few nights when most passengers stayed up after dinner. Usually, it got almost immediately quiet after dinner, with a few of the teens staying up, and a few adults heading for a nightcap. Definitely not a ship for night owls, as even I was usually in bed long before 11PM. But it was nice almost every evening to have one after dinner drink either in the lounge or up on the top deck. While the upper deck “Blue Finch Bar” never opened at night, even though it was mentioned in the daily program, the bartenders from the main lounge were more than happy to bring up the drinks to us. The bar was a bit understaffed this cruise, but they made up for it with enthusiasm.

Overall onboard there were several new crew, as some of the more experienced crew were rotating on and off, and since they’re all local, there were occasionally a few glitches with service, but never once could you fault their attitude or desire to take care of you.

Sea Lion Kisses

Tuesday. Floreana Island. This is the day I’ve been looking forward to – our first opportunity to snorkel! I’d tried to arrange to be able to dive on these snorkel sites (for better photographing of the sea lions underwater), but that wasn’t possible. That’s okay – the sea lions LOVE snorkelers!

It’s a very busy day today, with the potential for up to 4 excursions, 3 of which allow for snorkeling.

The early morning crew could head to Cormorant Point, hiking into a brackish pond which is fabulous for bird-watching. Flamingos, stilts, pintail ducks and more were seen here. You could snorkel here as well, but not if you wanted to also do the high intensity snorkel, which I’d been told by past passengers was THE place to snorkel and not miss. They were right!

About mid-morning, we loaded our snorkel gear into the zodiacs, and headed out to Champion Island to find the sea lions. Actually, they found us, as they headed into the water as soon as they sighted our boats. They know what the boats meant: PLAY TIME WITH HUMANS! As we got to the drop-off point where we’d slide off the boats into the water, several sea lions were already circling the boats, barking at us, telling us to hurry up and get in with them.

It’s a wondrous moment to realize these wild animals look forward to us and we make them happy and excited. Not often in nature do you get this type of interaction. I’d experienced it before in the Sea of Cortez, and it ranked among my most memorable and happiest animal interactions. These sea lions were just as enthusiastic and happy to see us, and we quickly donned our gear and got into the water.

The excursion is billed as a “high intensity snorkel”, but truly, if you’re comfortable in water above your head and snorkeling in potentially rough conditions (in other words, don’t get panicked if water comes into your snorkel), you should be fine here. I’m sure at times there are some stronger currents than we experienced, but it was a good snorkel where most of the exertion was in playing with the sea lions.

From the moment we dropped in, they surrounded us, darting in and out, zooming around us, begging us to play with them.

Several of the teens and naturalists were good at free diving down with them, and the sea lions loved it!



Many times, it seemed as if they couldn’t figure out why people were heading the other way (though they were likely watching other sea lions)


There were often multiple lions entertaining us – or were we entertaining them?


But it wasn’t all play – they were also fishing while they were out with us.


Interestingly, while the sea lions seemed comfortable with most cameras, they weren’t liking my dome port very much. I think this was new to them, as in the Sea of Cortez, they tended to use it as almost a mirror, coming right up and staying nose to dome with it. With my dome here in Galapaos, they came zooming up to me, but then veer off more quickly than I’m used to.


I think they just don’t see this type of lens and port here with the snorkelers as sea lions elsewhere where they get more divers with the larger camera rigs. By the way, it’s the dome port and fisheye lens that I used which account for the curves you sometimes see at the edges of the frame – such as at the top with the water.

Of course, there are the classic play poses that all sea lions tend to do.


And get a sense of their immense power while swimming.

The bubbles you see in poses like this aren’t from their exhaling, but instead from them barking underwater to communicate.

It wasn’t all sea lions, either. A reef shark was sighted, as were several types of tropical fish.

but the sea lions were absolutely the stars of the show.

It was with regret that we left to head back to the ship for lunch. The good news, however, is that immediately after lunch, there was another high intensity snorkel on the agenda!

During lunch, a huge school of dolphins surrounded the ship, one of the largest I’ve ever seen, with well over 100 individuals. Our Captain handled the ship as nimbly as a zodiac, turning and playing with them, following them, staying with them as long as possible. Yet another good reason to eat lunch out at the Beagle Grill! I just wish I’d had my camera, but alas it was in my cabin still in its underwater casing awaiting the afternoon snorkel excursion.

Mystery Bay was next up, and we were dropped a bit off the bay and swam in. I have to admit, I was a bit puzzled by this, as we didn’t really spot much on the swim in, and the swim was rather high intensity as we were booking along at a good pace over a distance. Since the zodiacs were able to get into the bay to pick us up, it wasn’t for that, so I have to presume it was that we were looking for other critters (such as rays, sharks or turtles) which weren’t in evidence this day.

We did pass one outcropping with Galapagos Penguins, but unfortunately we didn’t veer close to them. One of my few disappointments of the week. I have a feeling our guide didn’t see them.

The water was very dark and murky today, turning everything a bit of a green color underwater, with a lot of sand kicked up. But that didn’t keep a small family of sea lions from coming out to play with us!


This family seemed much more interested in being photographed.

– doesn’t that second shot seem to be asking if I wanted to photograph him, too? This sea lion actually bumped my port he came so close.


Even though there weren’t as many sea lions here, the interactions between sea lions and snorkelers were just as stunning, with them seeking us out to play.


The last excursion option of the day was a wet landing at “Baroness Lookout”, a site which figures prominently in the human history, gossip, mystery and scandals which are a part of these islands. Yes, these islands do have a fascinating human history as well, with many colorful characters, both men and women, attracted to these intriguing islands.

After dinner, many of us gathered on the “WHIG SIG” top deck to get a star gazing lesson from the second officer. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t cooperating by the time she arrived, though we’d already tentatively identified many of the southern constellations. Of course, some of the identifications might not have been accurate, but since we had arranged for “beverage service” up there, we weren’t too concerned by the end. This is such a wonderful way to end the day – lying on the loungers, watching the stars and talking with friends, with after dinner drinks being served to us. We were loving the luxury!

What is WHIG SIG? Several of us the very first day during the bus ride decided that “What Happens in Galapagos Stays in Galapagos” and I promptly named us the WHIG SIGs. So of course, the deck where we would hang out at night (sometimes having to evict the teens who thought it was their territory) became the WHIG SIG deck. All were welcome, as long as they embraced that philosophy and shared their laughter and fun with us.

That night we also got to enjoy the antics of the water creatures once we arrived at our anchorage, as the ship turned on the anchoring lights, attracting the small fish who came to feed, and then the pelicans and sea lions who fed on the fish. You could see the hierarchy of predators in action – the plankton are attracted by the lights, and are fed on by the small fish who, in turn, are eaten by the larger predators. This is the Galapagos – this is nature.

Dawn’s Early Light and Island Color

The pace of the ship varies by day. Some days are more relaxed. Some are pretty hectic. Day 2 on the ship is one of the busiest, and if you’re ambitious, there are up to 4 excursions today. Starting out VERY early morning this morning. If you read my Antarctica blog, you might think that I’m good at getting up early for sunrise shots. In truth, it takes a lot to get me out of bed in the morning. It’s got to be pretty spectacular to drive away the cobwebs and have me alert enough to start photographing. This was one of those mornings. I’d been told that Kicker Rock in the morning was a do not miss, and I now have to agree!

It’s a 7AM ride to Kicker Rock, which is a volcanic outcropping. It once was one large structure, made up of compacted tufa, which has through erosion split apart Early morning is the perfect time to see it, as the light is amazing.


There are many fissures at the base of the rocks.



You can even sail through it.



We observed sea lions, blue footed boobies, frigates, and in the water several sharks, including scalloped hammerheads, black tips and reef sharks and several large turtles. The water was clear and still, making it all the more exciting to watch the sea life, but also a perfect way to start the day.



Next up was a visit to Puerto Baquerizo, one of two towns we will be visiting this week. If you’re needing some basic supplies (emphasis on basic), a quick trip to the internet or some souvenirs, this stop is a must. There’s also a visit to the Interpretation Center (Human History Museum). At least, that’s what I was told. I hate to admit that, after all the rushing to get ready on short notice for this trip, along with the hot weather and early mornings, I decided that a couple hours of sleep would be a very good thing. Oops!

But I was up for lunch, which today we decided to do in the dining room. You have two options for lunch, often with very similar offerings. The dining room is buffet style for lunch, and casual, or there’s the Beagle Grill on the aft deck. If it’s hot without wind, the dining room is a welcome respite, but have to say after the first day, you would have found me on the back deck for lunch every day, as it’s just too beautiful to be inside. The ship is usually traveling during the lunch break, so the scenery is ever changing. I think also because it was hot, I found myself eating pretty light for lunch, with breakfast and dinner being the heavier meals.

Right after lunch, it’s up to the pool deck (yes, there’s a large hot tub on this ship!) to get outfitted with snorkel gear. In colder months, the wet suits are a necessity, as the water here can get extremely chilly. In March, however, the water temps are at their highest, and many found that a wet suit wasn’t needed. However, take the time to get a proper fit on your mask, as you’ll find yourself smiling and laughing a lot underwater as the sea lions amuse you, and a leaking mask makes for a lot less fun.

While most people found the need for an afternoon nap, there is another offering which I made a point of going to – the afternoon lecture series. While nap time is important to me, these lectures were absolutely fabulous in helping gain even more understanding of these islands, their geology, ecology, conservation and human impacts. Today was geology, which is the perfect start to the series to give a background on their formation and continuing growth.

The afternoon brought us to Espanola Island, with two options for excursions – a hike to Point Suarez (which, I understand, during albatross season from May-November, is THE place to watch them at the Albatross “Airport”), or a lower, medium intensity zodiac ride and hike. If the albatross were in residence, I’d have done the cliff hike with no hesitation, but since they were all out to sea still in March, off I went on the medium activity.

The evening briefing is very good to explain about the next day’s activities. Many times, just from the description in the daily program, you can decide what you want to do. However, sometimes you need more information, or there’s a tidbit about what you’ll see or the terrain which makes the difference. The slide show illustrates the briefing, and also helps in making your decision. Still unsure after the briefing? Ask one of the naturalists. But do be aware, because they’re used to the terrain and wonderfully fit and sure-footed, they sometimes make the high intensity sound easier than it is. You’ll get a feel for it after the first couple days, but do know the lower intensity often has more critter viewing. The higher intensity isn’t always more difficult – it’s sometimes just longer.

Espanola is a riot of color. Not the island – the residents. From the blue footed boobies (they’re everywhere!) to the lava lizards (which are the most brightly colored here of all the islands;



on each island these lava lizards not only have a different color specific to that island, they also have a different “dance” of up and down to show agitation and other communication), to the red and yellow marine iguanas, it seemed that the critters were trying to stand out from their surroundings, rather than blend in.

This park plaque greets you as you exit off the zodiac. It seemed that the Nazca Boobies were always on it, either singly or in pairs.



The little Blue Footed chicks are just too adorable for words.



Today it sunk in deeper in your consciousness and with amazement you understand how unafraid these birds all are. They simply don’t fear you. Not the chicks, not the adults. This realization hits deep at your core. At first, it’s simply the astonishment and joy at being able to get close up for pictures, without causing apparent stress. But then you begin to understand that nature here is different without mammalian predators. You realize that it’s not size or our noises which scare off birds and animals. It’s simply us. But here in the Galapagos, we aren’t the enemy. We aren’t to be feared (at least not in a one-on-one manner – but more on that later). Instead of being the pinnacle of the food chain, we’re instead completely removed from it, and therefore from the necessity of flight. You begin to gain an inkling of understanding of how raw nature is here, and how we’re truly not a part of this isolated group of islands. That if we were to be a part, we would begin to inextricably change what makes these islands so amazing. It’s the beginning of a much greater realization which takes hold of your mind and heart over your journey.

Sorry about the philosophizing. This is just a place which brings it out. Be prepared for quite a bit more over the week.

But back to the critters. I know that’s why you’re here!

Yes, all those pictures of the boobies’ blue feet are real. Of course I have to do a requisite close-up so you can see just how blue. This is not photoshop magic.



But did you know their throats are also blue? Ask me how I know. Come on, ask!



This single bird was so patient he let me take over 100 pictures of him. And quite a character, too!



Were we talking colors? I forgot to mention the Sally Lightfoot crab. They’re incredibly brilliant and everywhere!



The lava lizards are probably the most skitterish of the critters, with the exception of the Darwin Finches and the feral cats (more on them later). But even they let you get up close and personal.






Oh wait, those aren’t lava lizards, are they? They’re too large. And too bright. These are the very brightly-colored marine iguanas just out sunning themselves on the rocks. Caution, R rated picture ahead.



Walking along the paths, you never know what you’ll come across. This was a touching moment between mother and pup.


You literally have to walk around some of the animals, as of course, they don’t care they’re in the path you’re supposed to follow.

At times, because this is true nature, not Disney or even Sea World, you also come across the casualties. Whether it be a pup whose mother didn’t make it back from hunting, or a bird who has become prey to a larger bird, or an iguana carcass, there are signs everywhere of the circle of life. Coming up on this bird, at first I thought it was injured.



But no, it just turns out it was resting, and totally undisturbed by my passing. I have to admit, I did give a bit of a sigh of relief. Sometimes, no matter that your head says is just nature working, your heart hurts a bit.

As we got back to the jetty to board the zodiacs back to the ship, we were seen off by a Galapagos Hawk perched atop the light beacon.


Back to the ship, shower, change, briefing, dinner and after a nightcap up on the “WHIG SIG” upper deck (more about that and the friendships which form on such a journey and intimate ship), it’s time for BED!

Service and Sea Lions and Boobies!

Have to tell you, 5AM comes mighty early, especially at this altitude. We had an early morning chartered flight, and our checked luggage needed to be out in the hallway no later than 5AM for inspections by the Park Officials, to ensure that we weren’t transporting seeds, plants, etc., which would be bad for the Galapagos. Check in for the flight was in the hotel library by 6:30, with seat assignments and all the flight details taken care of by Celebrity, then off to the airport at 7:15AM.

The procedure at the airport is very easy, since you’re already checked in, you just have to go through security. At this point, no restrictions on liquids in your carry-ons, nor do you have to remove laptops or shoes.

The plane is a chartered Embraer 190 from TAME (pronounced “tammy”), with a 2-2 configuration. It’s just large enough for us, as it’s the type of plane often referred to as an “executive jet” by the larger airlines. The weight restriction is so that we’re not overloaded trying to take off in the high altitude of Quito, which makes it more difficult to get aloft. Do take it seriously! There is a new airport being constructed outside Quito, which will allow for longer runways and more of a safety margin, but until its scheduled opening sometime in 2009, the restrictions are absolutely necessary.

Service on the flight was quite good, and obviously Celebrity has had a say in how it’s handled. Even here, the Celebrity touch is evident, from the head rest covers which have the Xpedition logo on them, to the tray table cloths with the same, edible and tasty food, and the quality of service. Very nice.

But of course, those are just the logistics. We care most about what happens once we arrive, right?

Excitement was definitely growing as we sighted the first island on our descent. It increased when we could spy sea lions on the rocks as we got lower. Then went to a fever pitch when we landed and I sighted the first land iguana.

Immigration was smooth, though there is a bit of a line. Just be aware that your hand luggage will be inspected again for prohibited items, such as flowers, plants and seeds. They’re serious here about not introducing any new species to the islands.

Whisked off to the boat jetty by bus to catch the zodiac, you catch the first sight of this beautiful vessel. Then you realize you’re surrounded by sea lions, even on the benches at the jetty! Don’t go crazy taking their picture – these are the first of almost constant sightings. They’re adorable (and aromatic), but you’ll see so many more, there’s no need to frantically search your bags for your cameras. Since almost all reviews of the Galapagos start out with the almost mandatory pictures of these lounging pinnipeds, I’ll resist putting one in here!

Once onboard, there’s a brief orientation (of course you’re served champagne, orange juice or whatever you wish), then off to your cabin. These cabins are a bit shorter than a traditional ship cabin, but much wider, which in many ways makes the cabin more functional and seemingly larger. Very comfortable, especially with only 30 lbs of luggage. Two separate closets, both with shelves and hangers. Two beds, but be aware when they’re configured as a queen, they’re still made up as 2 separate beds.

A more detailed orientation, then muster drill, then you’re off to the first excursion on North Seymour Island. This island is the best place to see Frigate Birds nesting, which means the males with their red gullets puffed out. Also Blue Footed Boobies (and chicks), land iguanas, lava lizards and of course sea lions.

There are almost always at least two different options for the excursions, a high intensity and a lower option. On this day, the hike is over boulders, and is a bit tricky. If you are unsteady on your feet, or not good over uneven terrain, definitely don’t do the higher intensity hike. I highly recommend taking a provided walking stick – it really helps with this type of terrain.

While it was said during the briefing that the best chance for viewing the male frigates in full glory was on the high intensity hike, at least this day the lower intensity route had all the best viewing. Fortunately, the high intensity covers the same ground at the end, but don’t hesitate to take it a bit easier if you’re at all concerned with walking on boulders. You don’t want to start out taking a fall!

Enough with the logistics! This is all about the critters. I’m going to give a bit of the practical details each day, but you only care about that if you’re a research addict and are already preparing to go. Mostly, we all want to see the animals!

When you arrive to shore, you get your first look at blue footed boobies up on the cliffs,



then the sea lions which surround the landing site.



Excitement mounts as you climb the stairs, then you start your walk. Wow! Those feet really are blue!



What’s most amazing is how unafraid even the birds are of you. I’m so used to having to whisper and creep up on animals to have any chance at a shot. Not so here. They have no mammalian predators, so don’t equate us with danger in any way. Keeping your voice down and moving slowly is still a good idea, but don’t get crazed about moving one inch a minute.

Walking around the trail, we constantly had frigate birds around us, in the trees and up in the air. The females have the white chests, while the males have the red throat.


Suddenly, at the base of a tree, there’s a flash of white. A booby chick! At this stage, their feet aren’t yet blue, but they’re sure cute and fluffy.


Then the guide points toward the greenery. As your eyes focus in, you realize there’s a face in there – a land iguana! It’s easy to picture in your mind that you’re in a prehistoric time, with the birds flying and crying overhead, and these spiny lizards at your feet.



Continuing to walk along the path, you get to more and more frigates, with the males posturing for the females. Along the way, you’re introduced to the lava lizard, which have different coloring and posturing habits on each island, and other residents such as these grasshoppers getting a bit personal and ensuring the survival of the species…

At the end of the hike (very hot this time of year), you’re back along the beach area and in and among the sea lions. The pups are crying for their moms, sunning or playing on the rocks.

At one point, we paused to watch one pup who was chasing another pup’s mother, crying and obviously trying to nurse. The mother was running away as fast as she could, herding her own pup ahead of her. There was no way to tell if the other pup was abandoned, orphaned, or if its own mother was just out hunting for an extended time and the pup got impatient. It was sad and comical at the same time.

Several times, we had to move out of the way of the pups, as the naturalists explained that the mothers identify their pups by scent, and touching us, getting our scent, or the aroma of our sunscreen or whatever, on them could cause their mothers to reject them.

Of course, the pups also quite good at posing for us.




The guides are excellent. They make sure you have plenty of time for photography, that you actually do see the camouflaged critters, and they set a comfortable pace. All along the hike, they give information about the specific island, the wildlife and their habits. I’ve found them easy to understand and extremely knowledgeable, as you’d expect.

What a first day! I can’t wait for tomorrow!

On My Way - Quito and Celebrity Xpedition

Contrasts. I can tell already this will be a journey of contrasts. Tonight, I’m sitting in the wonderful lobby of the JW Marriott Hotel in Quito, enjoying the sound of the waterfalls, the soft music and unbelievable service. Tomorrow, I’ll be on a ship in the Galapagos going back in time and seeing nature and evolution in all their glory. Tonight we had dinner at a historic Opera House while being serenaded, tomorrow we’ll be in shorts and tee shirts and pretty much that’s the dress code for the next week. Tonight is city refinement, tomorrow is nothing but nature.

I should probably take a step back here. How have I gotten here? What is going on so far? And what’s ahead?

Welcome to my “Not Quite Live From Celebrity Xpedition” blog. Because of logistics, both with internet access and time constraints onboard, it was not really possible for me to duplicate the live blog I did from Antarctica earlier this year. So just consider this a time-delayed version, with entries that will be sent out over the next several days. With pictures, of course! Some of the blogs were mostly written on site, while others were completed after the fact. So forgive grammatical lapses with tense and such, and know it’s because of the time I was actually writing that segment.

Galapagos has been on my “top three” places to see list for a very long time, along with Antarctica and Africa. Ever since Celebrity announced their ship the Xpedition in January, 2004, I’ve known she was the ship I wanted to sail on in these mystical islands. Just over a week before I arrived here, I was given the opportunity to come down and experience this ship for myself. You know I jumped at it, even though the planning was a bit harried. This is definitely not your typical cruise, so packing is more challenging. Can we say 30 pound luggage weight limit? That’s not per bag, that’s per person. And they pretty well mean it.

Flights are also a bit of a challenge from the US, as there aren’t that many airlines that serve Quito direct from the US, though connections through other cities in Central and South America are common. Direct flights come from Houston on Continental or Miami on LAN or American Airlines.

Fortunately, the trip here was relatively uneventful. I don’t count airplane “mechanicals” as an issue unless they cause you to miss a flight. Ours didn’t, though they allowed everyone catching the flight to Quito off the flight first, as we had a very tight connection in Miami.

Upon arrival, you’re in the caring hands of Celebrity. On the 10, 11 or 13 night packages, your pre-cruise and post-cruise stays in Quito on the way to the Galapagos are included, as are the transfers, tips, most of the meals in Quito, the day tour, and on and on. They really pride themselves in giving a full service experience.

That care and attention is matched by the associates at the JW Marriott. Truly wonderful staff. The hotel itself is beautiful, with a great lobby and restaurant area, along with excellent pool and spa facilities, and of course what you know and love about Marriott rooms.

The first full day of the trip starts with an included breakfast, then a city tour of Quito, a wonderful lunch a bit outside of town up in the Andes on the edge of a volcanic crater, a fun visit to the Equator, and a really nice dinner at the old Opera House. The day is paced to allow for those having altitude adjustment issues (as Quito is at 9,000 feet). It’s definitely not as full a day as those which are ahead. The best part of the day for me was definitely getting to know some of the other passengers. This ship only carries about 90 passengers, so there’s an opportunity to really get to know your fellow adventurers. This was a good start to that.

I’d actually recommend an extra day here, either at the start or as part of the 11-night package with an additional day at the end, so you can go out into the countryside to see the nature and wildlife in the Cloud Forest or experience the indigenous culture in some of the large Indian Markets.

The visit to the Old City was wonderful. Many of the Cathedrals are encrusted in gold and gold leaf, some of which dates back to Colonial era. The Colonial buildings in the historic district take you back and put you in another time. Beautiful streetscapes are everywhere. It’s really wonderful for history buffs. But even if you’re not a historian, the narrow, winding roads are enjoyable, as is seeing some of the interior courtyards and the people.

By the way, if you’re at all sun sensitive, do wear sunscreen on this excursion, even if it’s cloudy. The thin atmosphere, high altitude, and strength of the sun at the equator combine to make for extreme sun exposure. Trust me on this one. Right now, I’m more than a tad pink, and I was wearing sunscreen.

Oh yes, the people. Have to talk about the people. Beautiful, friendly, open, warm, hospitable. I’ve not encountered a sour face or anything but exceptional service. I definitely want to come back and spend more time with the locals, both in the city and the indigenous people. It’s fantastic to see people in traditional dress on the street, mingling perfectly with those in modern, western clothes. I also have to admit a country where I’m considered tall at just under 5’ is nice and an unusual experience.

Then there’s the food. Take every chance you get to try traditional Equadorian food. Especially the breads. They’re light and flavorful and delicious! Then there’s the potato soup, served with cheese (similar to Monterey jack) and avocados. The sauces are light, but very tasty. But do be careful in Quito about salads, fruits and vegetables, and of course water and ice. Do use bottled water, eliminate ice, and even brush your teeth with bottled water. And wash your hands. Celebrity does take you to quite good restaurants, but as anywhere different to you, precautions are wise.

We’re off very early tomorrow morning for the Galapagos. It’s about a 2 hour flight, then we board zodiacs to reach the ship (there are no docks in Galapagos). Almost immediately, we’ll have our first excursions. Of course, all the excursions (except scuba diving) are included.

It’s the start of the true adventure, and exploration of the contrasts in nature. I can’t wait!

It’s the Not Quite Live From the Celebrity Xpedition in the Galapagos Blogs!

I have been promising these for quite some time, and they're finally here! The "Not Quite Live From the Celebrity Xpedition in the Galapagos" blogs!

If you read my Antarctica Blogs from the Star Princess in January/February of this year, then you're familiar with my style for these. I'll be adding a new installment, with pictures of course, every day or two. There are 10 installments in total, covering my thoughts, impressions, logistics, and of course the CRITTERS!

My regular, news blog posts, may be interspersed as well, so the blog may be extremely busy the next couple weeks!

The reason it's taken me so long to post these is that doing Antarctica and Galapagos not just in the same year, but fairly close to one another, was overwhelming. It took a lot out of me, and took time to process so I could do the Galapagos and Celebrity Xpedition justice. I apologize for the delay, and hope you'll find the wait worthwhile.

If you have questions or want additional information about anything I've written, feel free to email me at amber@cruiseresource.com.

So now on to the blog!