Dawn’s Early Light and Island Color

The pace of the ship varies by day. Some days are more relaxed. Some are pretty hectic. Day 2 on the ship is one of the busiest, and if you’re ambitious, there are up to 4 excursions today. Starting out VERY early morning this morning. If you read my Antarctica blog, you might think that I’m good at getting up early for sunrise shots. In truth, it takes a lot to get me out of bed in the morning. It’s got to be pretty spectacular to drive away the cobwebs and have me alert enough to start photographing. This was one of those mornings. I’d been told that Kicker Rock in the morning was a do not miss, and I now have to agree!

It’s a 7AM ride to Kicker Rock, which is a volcanic outcropping. It once was one large structure, made up of compacted tufa, which has through erosion split apart Early morning is the perfect time to see it, as the light is amazing.


There are many fissures at the base of the rocks.



You can even sail through it.



We observed sea lions, blue footed boobies, frigates, and in the water several sharks, including scalloped hammerheads, black tips and reef sharks and several large turtles. The water was clear and still, making it all the more exciting to watch the sea life, but also a perfect way to start the day.



Next up was a visit to Puerto Baquerizo, one of two towns we will be visiting this week. If you’re needing some basic supplies (emphasis on basic), a quick trip to the internet or some souvenirs, this stop is a must. There’s also a visit to the Interpretation Center (Human History Museum). At least, that’s what I was told. I hate to admit that, after all the rushing to get ready on short notice for this trip, along with the hot weather and early mornings, I decided that a couple hours of sleep would be a very good thing. Oops!

But I was up for lunch, which today we decided to do in the dining room. You have two options for lunch, often with very similar offerings. The dining room is buffet style for lunch, and casual, or there’s the Beagle Grill on the aft deck. If it’s hot without wind, the dining room is a welcome respite, but have to say after the first day, you would have found me on the back deck for lunch every day, as it’s just too beautiful to be inside. The ship is usually traveling during the lunch break, so the scenery is ever changing. I think also because it was hot, I found myself eating pretty light for lunch, with breakfast and dinner being the heavier meals.

Right after lunch, it’s up to the pool deck (yes, there’s a large hot tub on this ship!) to get outfitted with snorkel gear. In colder months, the wet suits are a necessity, as the water here can get extremely chilly. In March, however, the water temps are at their highest, and many found that a wet suit wasn’t needed. However, take the time to get a proper fit on your mask, as you’ll find yourself smiling and laughing a lot underwater as the sea lions amuse you, and a leaking mask makes for a lot less fun.

While most people found the need for an afternoon nap, there is another offering which I made a point of going to – the afternoon lecture series. While nap time is important to me, these lectures were absolutely fabulous in helping gain even more understanding of these islands, their geology, ecology, conservation and human impacts. Today was geology, which is the perfect start to the series to give a background on their formation and continuing growth.

The afternoon brought us to Espanola Island, with two options for excursions – a hike to Point Suarez (which, I understand, during albatross season from May-November, is THE place to watch them at the Albatross “Airport”), or a lower, medium intensity zodiac ride and hike. If the albatross were in residence, I’d have done the cliff hike with no hesitation, but since they were all out to sea still in March, off I went on the medium activity.

The evening briefing is very good to explain about the next day’s activities. Many times, just from the description in the daily program, you can decide what you want to do. However, sometimes you need more information, or there’s a tidbit about what you’ll see or the terrain which makes the difference. The slide show illustrates the briefing, and also helps in making your decision. Still unsure after the briefing? Ask one of the naturalists. But do be aware, because they’re used to the terrain and wonderfully fit and sure-footed, they sometimes make the high intensity sound easier than it is. You’ll get a feel for it after the first couple days, but do know the lower intensity often has more critter viewing. The higher intensity isn’t always more difficult – it’s sometimes just longer.

Espanola is a riot of color. Not the island – the residents. From the blue footed boobies (they’re everywhere!) to the lava lizards (which are the most brightly colored here of all the islands;



on each island these lava lizards not only have a different color specific to that island, they also have a different “dance” of up and down to show agitation and other communication), to the red and yellow marine iguanas, it seemed that the critters were trying to stand out from their surroundings, rather than blend in.

This park plaque greets you as you exit off the zodiac. It seemed that the Nazca Boobies were always on it, either singly or in pairs.



The little Blue Footed chicks are just too adorable for words.



Today it sunk in deeper in your consciousness and with amazement you understand how unafraid these birds all are. They simply don’t fear you. Not the chicks, not the adults. This realization hits deep at your core. At first, it’s simply the astonishment and joy at being able to get close up for pictures, without causing apparent stress. But then you begin to understand that nature here is different without mammalian predators. You realize that it’s not size or our noises which scare off birds and animals. It’s simply us. But here in the Galapagos, we aren’t the enemy. We aren’t to be feared (at least not in a one-on-one manner – but more on that later). Instead of being the pinnacle of the food chain, we’re instead completely removed from it, and therefore from the necessity of flight. You begin to gain an inkling of understanding of how raw nature is here, and how we’re truly not a part of this isolated group of islands. That if we were to be a part, we would begin to inextricably change what makes these islands so amazing. It’s the beginning of a much greater realization which takes hold of your mind and heart over your journey.

Sorry about the philosophizing. This is just a place which brings it out. Be prepared for quite a bit more over the week.

But back to the critters. I know that’s why you’re here!

Yes, all those pictures of the boobies’ blue feet are real. Of course I have to do a requisite close-up so you can see just how blue. This is not photoshop magic.



But did you know their throats are also blue? Ask me how I know. Come on, ask!



This single bird was so patient he let me take over 100 pictures of him. And quite a character, too!



Were we talking colors? I forgot to mention the Sally Lightfoot crab. They’re incredibly brilliant and everywhere!



The lava lizards are probably the most skitterish of the critters, with the exception of the Darwin Finches and the feral cats (more on them later). But even they let you get up close and personal.






Oh wait, those aren’t lava lizards, are they? They’re too large. And too bright. These are the very brightly-colored marine iguanas just out sunning themselves on the rocks. Caution, R rated picture ahead.



Walking along the paths, you never know what you’ll come across. This was a touching moment between mother and pup.


You literally have to walk around some of the animals, as of course, they don’t care they’re in the path you’re supposed to follow.

At times, because this is true nature, not Disney or even Sea World, you also come across the casualties. Whether it be a pup whose mother didn’t make it back from hunting, or a bird who has become prey to a larger bird, or an iguana carcass, there are signs everywhere of the circle of life. Coming up on this bird, at first I thought it was injured.



But no, it just turns out it was resting, and totally undisturbed by my passing. I have to admit, I did give a bit of a sigh of relief. Sometimes, no matter that your head says is just nature working, your heart hurts a bit.

As we got back to the jetty to board the zodiacs back to the ship, we were seen off by a Galapagos Hawk perched atop the light beacon.


Back to the ship, shower, change, briefing, dinner and after a nightcap up on the “WHIG SIG” upper deck (more about that and the friendships which form on such a journey and intimate ship), it’s time for BED!