Sea Lion Kisses

Tuesday. Floreana Island. This is the day I’ve been looking forward to – our first opportunity to snorkel! I’d tried to arrange to be able to dive on these snorkel sites (for better photographing of the sea lions underwater), but that wasn’t possible. That’s okay – the sea lions LOVE snorkelers!

It’s a very busy day today, with the potential for up to 4 excursions, 3 of which allow for snorkeling.

The early morning crew could head to Cormorant Point, hiking into a brackish pond which is fabulous for bird-watching. Flamingos, stilts, pintail ducks and more were seen here. You could snorkel here as well, but not if you wanted to also do the high intensity snorkel, which I’d been told by past passengers was THE place to snorkel and not miss. They were right!

About mid-morning, we loaded our snorkel gear into the zodiacs, and headed out to Champion Island to find the sea lions. Actually, they found us, as they headed into the water as soon as they sighted our boats. They know what the boats meant: PLAY TIME WITH HUMANS! As we got to the drop-off point where we’d slide off the boats into the water, several sea lions were already circling the boats, barking at us, telling us to hurry up and get in with them.

It’s a wondrous moment to realize these wild animals look forward to us and we make them happy and excited. Not often in nature do you get this type of interaction. I’d experienced it before in the Sea of Cortez, and it ranked among my most memorable and happiest animal interactions. These sea lions were just as enthusiastic and happy to see us, and we quickly donned our gear and got into the water.

The excursion is billed as a “high intensity snorkel”, but truly, if you’re comfortable in water above your head and snorkeling in potentially rough conditions (in other words, don’t get panicked if water comes into your snorkel), you should be fine here. I’m sure at times there are some stronger currents than we experienced, but it was a good snorkel where most of the exertion was in playing with the sea lions.

From the moment we dropped in, they surrounded us, darting in and out, zooming around us, begging us to play with them.

Several of the teens and naturalists were good at free diving down with them, and the sea lions loved it!



Many times, it seemed as if they couldn’t figure out why people were heading the other way (though they were likely watching other sea lions)


There were often multiple lions entertaining us – or were we entertaining them?


But it wasn’t all play – they were also fishing while they were out with us.


Interestingly, while the sea lions seemed comfortable with most cameras, they weren’t liking my dome port very much. I think this was new to them, as in the Sea of Cortez, they tended to use it as almost a mirror, coming right up and staying nose to dome with it. With my dome here in Galapaos, they came zooming up to me, but then veer off more quickly than I’m used to.


I think they just don’t see this type of lens and port here with the snorkelers as sea lions elsewhere where they get more divers with the larger camera rigs. By the way, it’s the dome port and fisheye lens that I used which account for the curves you sometimes see at the edges of the frame – such as at the top with the water.

Of course, there are the classic play poses that all sea lions tend to do.


And get a sense of their immense power while swimming.

The bubbles you see in poses like this aren’t from their exhaling, but instead from them barking underwater to communicate.

It wasn’t all sea lions, either. A reef shark was sighted, as were several types of tropical fish.

but the sea lions were absolutely the stars of the show.

It was with regret that we left to head back to the ship for lunch. The good news, however, is that immediately after lunch, there was another high intensity snorkel on the agenda!

During lunch, a huge school of dolphins surrounded the ship, one of the largest I’ve ever seen, with well over 100 individuals. Our Captain handled the ship as nimbly as a zodiac, turning and playing with them, following them, staying with them as long as possible. Yet another good reason to eat lunch out at the Beagle Grill! I just wish I’d had my camera, but alas it was in my cabin still in its underwater casing awaiting the afternoon snorkel excursion.

Mystery Bay was next up, and we were dropped a bit off the bay and swam in. I have to admit, I was a bit puzzled by this, as we didn’t really spot much on the swim in, and the swim was rather high intensity as we were booking along at a good pace over a distance. Since the zodiacs were able to get into the bay to pick us up, it wasn’t for that, so I have to presume it was that we were looking for other critters (such as rays, sharks or turtles) which weren’t in evidence this day.

We did pass one outcropping with Galapagos Penguins, but unfortunately we didn’t veer close to them. One of my few disappointments of the week. I have a feeling our guide didn’t see them.

The water was very dark and murky today, turning everything a bit of a green color underwater, with a lot of sand kicked up. But that didn’t keep a small family of sea lions from coming out to play with us!


This family seemed much more interested in being photographed.

– doesn’t that second shot seem to be asking if I wanted to photograph him, too? This sea lion actually bumped my port he came so close.


Even though there weren’t as many sea lions here, the interactions between sea lions and snorkelers were just as stunning, with them seeking us out to play.


The last excursion option of the day was a wet landing at “Baroness Lookout”, a site which figures prominently in the human history, gossip, mystery and scandals which are a part of these islands. Yes, these islands do have a fascinating human history as well, with many colorful characters, both men and women, attracted to these intriguing islands.

After dinner, many of us gathered on the “WHIG SIG” top deck to get a star gazing lesson from the second officer. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t cooperating by the time she arrived, though we’d already tentatively identified many of the southern constellations. Of course, some of the identifications might not have been accurate, but since we had arranged for “beverage service” up there, we weren’t too concerned by the end. This is such a wonderful way to end the day – lying on the loungers, watching the stars and talking with friends, with after dinner drinks being served to us. We were loving the luxury!

What is WHIG SIG? Several of us the very first day during the bus ride decided that “What Happens in Galapagos Stays in Galapagos” and I promptly named us the WHIG SIGs. So of course, the deck where we would hang out at night (sometimes having to evict the teens who thought it was their territory) became the WHIG SIG deck. All were welcome, as long as they embraced that philosophy and shared their laughter and fun with us.

That night we also got to enjoy the antics of the water creatures once we arrived at our anchorage, as the ship turned on the anchoring lights, attracting the small fish who came to feed, and then the pelicans and sea lions who fed on the fish. You could see the hierarchy of predators in action – the plankton are attracted by the lights, and are fed on by the small fish who, in turn, are eaten by the larger predators. This is the Galapagos – this is nature.

Dawn’s Early Light and Island Color

The pace of the ship varies by day. Some days are more relaxed. Some are pretty hectic. Day 2 on the ship is one of the busiest, and if you’re ambitious, there are up to 4 excursions today. Starting out VERY early morning this morning. If you read my Antarctica blog, you might think that I’m good at getting up early for sunrise shots. In truth, it takes a lot to get me out of bed in the morning. It’s got to be pretty spectacular to drive away the cobwebs and have me alert enough to start photographing. This was one of those mornings. I’d been told that Kicker Rock in the morning was a do not miss, and I now have to agree!

It’s a 7AM ride to Kicker Rock, which is a volcanic outcropping. It once was one large structure, made up of compacted tufa, which has through erosion split apart Early morning is the perfect time to see it, as the light is amazing.


There are many fissures at the base of the rocks.



You can even sail through it.



We observed sea lions, blue footed boobies, frigates, and in the water several sharks, including scalloped hammerheads, black tips and reef sharks and several large turtles. The water was clear and still, making it all the more exciting to watch the sea life, but also a perfect way to start the day.



Next up was a visit to Puerto Baquerizo, one of two towns we will be visiting this week. If you’re needing some basic supplies (emphasis on basic), a quick trip to the internet or some souvenirs, this stop is a must. There’s also a visit to the Interpretation Center (Human History Museum). At least, that’s what I was told. I hate to admit that, after all the rushing to get ready on short notice for this trip, along with the hot weather and early mornings, I decided that a couple hours of sleep would be a very good thing. Oops!

But I was up for lunch, which today we decided to do in the dining room. You have two options for lunch, often with very similar offerings. The dining room is buffet style for lunch, and casual, or there’s the Beagle Grill on the aft deck. If it’s hot without wind, the dining room is a welcome respite, but have to say after the first day, you would have found me on the back deck for lunch every day, as it’s just too beautiful to be inside. The ship is usually traveling during the lunch break, so the scenery is ever changing. I think also because it was hot, I found myself eating pretty light for lunch, with breakfast and dinner being the heavier meals.

Right after lunch, it’s up to the pool deck (yes, there’s a large hot tub on this ship!) to get outfitted with snorkel gear. In colder months, the wet suits are a necessity, as the water here can get extremely chilly. In March, however, the water temps are at their highest, and many found that a wet suit wasn’t needed. However, take the time to get a proper fit on your mask, as you’ll find yourself smiling and laughing a lot underwater as the sea lions amuse you, and a leaking mask makes for a lot less fun.

While most people found the need for an afternoon nap, there is another offering which I made a point of going to – the afternoon lecture series. While nap time is important to me, these lectures were absolutely fabulous in helping gain even more understanding of these islands, their geology, ecology, conservation and human impacts. Today was geology, which is the perfect start to the series to give a background on their formation and continuing growth.

The afternoon brought us to Espanola Island, with two options for excursions – a hike to Point Suarez (which, I understand, during albatross season from May-November, is THE place to watch them at the Albatross “Airport”), or a lower, medium intensity zodiac ride and hike. If the albatross were in residence, I’d have done the cliff hike with no hesitation, but since they were all out to sea still in March, off I went on the medium activity.

The evening briefing is very good to explain about the next day’s activities. Many times, just from the description in the daily program, you can decide what you want to do. However, sometimes you need more information, or there’s a tidbit about what you’ll see or the terrain which makes the difference. The slide show illustrates the briefing, and also helps in making your decision. Still unsure after the briefing? Ask one of the naturalists. But do be aware, because they’re used to the terrain and wonderfully fit and sure-footed, they sometimes make the high intensity sound easier than it is. You’ll get a feel for it after the first couple days, but do know the lower intensity often has more critter viewing. The higher intensity isn’t always more difficult – it’s sometimes just longer.

Espanola is a riot of color. Not the island – the residents. From the blue footed boobies (they’re everywhere!) to the lava lizards (which are the most brightly colored here of all the islands;



on each island these lava lizards not only have a different color specific to that island, they also have a different “dance” of up and down to show agitation and other communication), to the red and yellow marine iguanas, it seemed that the critters were trying to stand out from their surroundings, rather than blend in.

This park plaque greets you as you exit off the zodiac. It seemed that the Nazca Boobies were always on it, either singly or in pairs.



The little Blue Footed chicks are just too adorable for words.



Today it sunk in deeper in your consciousness and with amazement you understand how unafraid these birds all are. They simply don’t fear you. Not the chicks, not the adults. This realization hits deep at your core. At first, it’s simply the astonishment and joy at being able to get close up for pictures, without causing apparent stress. But then you begin to understand that nature here is different without mammalian predators. You realize that it’s not size or our noises which scare off birds and animals. It’s simply us. But here in the Galapagos, we aren’t the enemy. We aren’t to be feared (at least not in a one-on-one manner – but more on that later). Instead of being the pinnacle of the food chain, we’re instead completely removed from it, and therefore from the necessity of flight. You begin to gain an inkling of understanding of how raw nature is here, and how we’re truly not a part of this isolated group of islands. That if we were to be a part, we would begin to inextricably change what makes these islands so amazing. It’s the beginning of a much greater realization which takes hold of your mind and heart over your journey.

Sorry about the philosophizing. This is just a place which brings it out. Be prepared for quite a bit more over the week.

But back to the critters. I know that’s why you’re here!

Yes, all those pictures of the boobies’ blue feet are real. Of course I have to do a requisite close-up so you can see just how blue. This is not photoshop magic.



But did you know their throats are also blue? Ask me how I know. Come on, ask!



This single bird was so patient he let me take over 100 pictures of him. And quite a character, too!



Were we talking colors? I forgot to mention the Sally Lightfoot crab. They’re incredibly brilliant and everywhere!



The lava lizards are probably the most skitterish of the critters, with the exception of the Darwin Finches and the feral cats (more on them later). But even they let you get up close and personal.






Oh wait, those aren’t lava lizards, are they? They’re too large. And too bright. These are the very brightly-colored marine iguanas just out sunning themselves on the rocks. Caution, R rated picture ahead.



Walking along the paths, you never know what you’ll come across. This was a touching moment between mother and pup.


You literally have to walk around some of the animals, as of course, they don’t care they’re in the path you’re supposed to follow.

At times, because this is true nature, not Disney or even Sea World, you also come across the casualties. Whether it be a pup whose mother didn’t make it back from hunting, or a bird who has become prey to a larger bird, or an iguana carcass, there are signs everywhere of the circle of life. Coming up on this bird, at first I thought it was injured.



But no, it just turns out it was resting, and totally undisturbed by my passing. I have to admit, I did give a bit of a sigh of relief. Sometimes, no matter that your head says is just nature working, your heart hurts a bit.

As we got back to the jetty to board the zodiacs back to the ship, we were seen off by a Galapagos Hawk perched atop the light beacon.


Back to the ship, shower, change, briefing, dinner and after a nightcap up on the “WHIG SIG” upper deck (more about that and the friendships which form on such a journey and intimate ship), it’s time for BED!

Service and Sea Lions and Boobies!

Have to tell you, 5AM comes mighty early, especially at this altitude. We had an early morning chartered flight, and our checked luggage needed to be out in the hallway no later than 5AM for inspections by the Park Officials, to ensure that we weren’t transporting seeds, plants, etc., which would be bad for the Galapagos. Check in for the flight was in the hotel library by 6:30, with seat assignments and all the flight details taken care of by Celebrity, then off to the airport at 7:15AM.

The procedure at the airport is very easy, since you’re already checked in, you just have to go through security. At this point, no restrictions on liquids in your carry-ons, nor do you have to remove laptops or shoes.

The plane is a chartered Embraer 190 from TAME (pronounced “tammy”), with a 2-2 configuration. It’s just large enough for us, as it’s the type of plane often referred to as an “executive jet” by the larger airlines. The weight restriction is so that we’re not overloaded trying to take off in the high altitude of Quito, which makes it more difficult to get aloft. Do take it seriously! There is a new airport being constructed outside Quito, which will allow for longer runways and more of a safety margin, but until its scheduled opening sometime in 2009, the restrictions are absolutely necessary.

Service on the flight was quite good, and obviously Celebrity has had a say in how it’s handled. Even here, the Celebrity touch is evident, from the head rest covers which have the Xpedition logo on them, to the tray table cloths with the same, edible and tasty food, and the quality of service. Very nice.

But of course, those are just the logistics. We care most about what happens once we arrive, right?

Excitement was definitely growing as we sighted the first island on our descent. It increased when we could spy sea lions on the rocks as we got lower. Then went to a fever pitch when we landed and I sighted the first land iguana.

Immigration was smooth, though there is a bit of a line. Just be aware that your hand luggage will be inspected again for prohibited items, such as flowers, plants and seeds. They’re serious here about not introducing any new species to the islands.

Whisked off to the boat jetty by bus to catch the zodiac, you catch the first sight of this beautiful vessel. Then you realize you’re surrounded by sea lions, even on the benches at the jetty! Don’t go crazy taking their picture – these are the first of almost constant sightings. They’re adorable (and aromatic), but you’ll see so many more, there’s no need to frantically search your bags for your cameras. Since almost all reviews of the Galapagos start out with the almost mandatory pictures of these lounging pinnipeds, I’ll resist putting one in here!

Once onboard, there’s a brief orientation (of course you’re served champagne, orange juice or whatever you wish), then off to your cabin. These cabins are a bit shorter than a traditional ship cabin, but much wider, which in many ways makes the cabin more functional and seemingly larger. Very comfortable, especially with only 30 lbs of luggage. Two separate closets, both with shelves and hangers. Two beds, but be aware when they’re configured as a queen, they’re still made up as 2 separate beds.

A more detailed orientation, then muster drill, then you’re off to the first excursion on North Seymour Island. This island is the best place to see Frigate Birds nesting, which means the males with their red gullets puffed out. Also Blue Footed Boobies (and chicks), land iguanas, lava lizards and of course sea lions.

There are almost always at least two different options for the excursions, a high intensity and a lower option. On this day, the hike is over boulders, and is a bit tricky. If you are unsteady on your feet, or not good over uneven terrain, definitely don’t do the higher intensity hike. I highly recommend taking a provided walking stick – it really helps with this type of terrain.

While it was said during the briefing that the best chance for viewing the male frigates in full glory was on the high intensity hike, at least this day the lower intensity route had all the best viewing. Fortunately, the high intensity covers the same ground at the end, but don’t hesitate to take it a bit easier if you’re at all concerned with walking on boulders. You don’t want to start out taking a fall!

Enough with the logistics! This is all about the critters. I’m going to give a bit of the practical details each day, but you only care about that if you’re a research addict and are already preparing to go. Mostly, we all want to see the animals!

When you arrive to shore, you get your first look at blue footed boobies up on the cliffs,



then the sea lions which surround the landing site.



Excitement mounts as you climb the stairs, then you start your walk. Wow! Those feet really are blue!



What’s most amazing is how unafraid even the birds are of you. I’m so used to having to whisper and creep up on animals to have any chance at a shot. Not so here. They have no mammalian predators, so don’t equate us with danger in any way. Keeping your voice down and moving slowly is still a good idea, but don’t get crazed about moving one inch a minute.

Walking around the trail, we constantly had frigate birds around us, in the trees and up in the air. The females have the white chests, while the males have the red throat.


Suddenly, at the base of a tree, there’s a flash of white. A booby chick! At this stage, their feet aren’t yet blue, but they’re sure cute and fluffy.


Then the guide points toward the greenery. As your eyes focus in, you realize there’s a face in there – a land iguana! It’s easy to picture in your mind that you’re in a prehistoric time, with the birds flying and crying overhead, and these spiny lizards at your feet.



Continuing to walk along the path, you get to more and more frigates, with the males posturing for the females. Along the way, you’re introduced to the lava lizard, which have different coloring and posturing habits on each island, and other residents such as these grasshoppers getting a bit personal and ensuring the survival of the species…

At the end of the hike (very hot this time of year), you’re back along the beach area and in and among the sea lions. The pups are crying for their moms, sunning or playing on the rocks.

At one point, we paused to watch one pup who was chasing another pup’s mother, crying and obviously trying to nurse. The mother was running away as fast as she could, herding her own pup ahead of her. There was no way to tell if the other pup was abandoned, orphaned, or if its own mother was just out hunting for an extended time and the pup got impatient. It was sad and comical at the same time.

Several times, we had to move out of the way of the pups, as the naturalists explained that the mothers identify their pups by scent, and touching us, getting our scent, or the aroma of our sunscreen or whatever, on them could cause their mothers to reject them.

Of course, the pups also quite good at posing for us.




The guides are excellent. They make sure you have plenty of time for photography, that you actually do see the camouflaged critters, and they set a comfortable pace. All along the hike, they give information about the specific island, the wildlife and their habits. I’ve found them easy to understand and extremely knowledgeable, as you’d expect.

What a first day! I can’t wait for tomorrow!