Service and Sea Lions and Boobies!

Have to tell you, 5AM comes mighty early, especially at this altitude. We had an early morning chartered flight, and our checked luggage needed to be out in the hallway no later than 5AM for inspections by the Park Officials, to ensure that we weren’t transporting seeds, plants, etc., which would be bad for the Galapagos. Check in for the flight was in the hotel library by 6:30, with seat assignments and all the flight details taken care of by Celebrity, then off to the airport at 7:15AM.

The procedure at the airport is very easy, since you’re already checked in, you just have to go through security. At this point, no restrictions on liquids in your carry-ons, nor do you have to remove laptops or shoes.

The plane is a chartered Embraer 190 from TAME (pronounced “tammy”), with a 2-2 configuration. It’s just large enough for us, as it’s the type of plane often referred to as an “executive jet” by the larger airlines. The weight restriction is so that we’re not overloaded trying to take off in the high altitude of Quito, which makes it more difficult to get aloft. Do take it seriously! There is a new airport being constructed outside Quito, which will allow for longer runways and more of a safety margin, but until its scheduled opening sometime in 2009, the restrictions are absolutely necessary.

Service on the flight was quite good, and obviously Celebrity has had a say in how it’s handled. Even here, the Celebrity touch is evident, from the head rest covers which have the Xpedition logo on them, to the tray table cloths with the same, edible and tasty food, and the quality of service. Very nice.

But of course, those are just the logistics. We care most about what happens once we arrive, right?

Excitement was definitely growing as we sighted the first island on our descent. It increased when we could spy sea lions on the rocks as we got lower. Then went to a fever pitch when we landed and I sighted the first land iguana.

Immigration was smooth, though there is a bit of a line. Just be aware that your hand luggage will be inspected again for prohibited items, such as flowers, plants and seeds. They’re serious here about not introducing any new species to the islands.

Whisked off to the boat jetty by bus to catch the zodiac, you catch the first sight of this beautiful vessel. Then you realize you’re surrounded by sea lions, even on the benches at the jetty! Don’t go crazy taking their picture – these are the first of almost constant sightings. They’re adorable (and aromatic), but you’ll see so many more, there’s no need to frantically search your bags for your cameras. Since almost all reviews of the Galapagos start out with the almost mandatory pictures of these lounging pinnipeds, I’ll resist putting one in here!

Once onboard, there’s a brief orientation (of course you’re served champagne, orange juice or whatever you wish), then off to your cabin. These cabins are a bit shorter than a traditional ship cabin, but much wider, which in many ways makes the cabin more functional and seemingly larger. Very comfortable, especially with only 30 lbs of luggage. Two separate closets, both with shelves and hangers. Two beds, but be aware when they’re configured as a queen, they’re still made up as 2 separate beds.

A more detailed orientation, then muster drill, then you’re off to the first excursion on North Seymour Island. This island is the best place to see Frigate Birds nesting, which means the males with their red gullets puffed out. Also Blue Footed Boobies (and chicks), land iguanas, lava lizards and of course sea lions.

There are almost always at least two different options for the excursions, a high intensity and a lower option. On this day, the hike is over boulders, and is a bit tricky. If you are unsteady on your feet, or not good over uneven terrain, definitely don’t do the higher intensity hike. I highly recommend taking a provided walking stick – it really helps with this type of terrain.

While it was said during the briefing that the best chance for viewing the male frigates in full glory was on the high intensity hike, at least this day the lower intensity route had all the best viewing. Fortunately, the high intensity covers the same ground at the end, but don’t hesitate to take it a bit easier if you’re at all concerned with walking on boulders. You don’t want to start out taking a fall!

Enough with the logistics! This is all about the critters. I’m going to give a bit of the practical details each day, but you only care about that if you’re a research addict and are already preparing to go. Mostly, we all want to see the animals!

When you arrive to shore, you get your first look at blue footed boobies up on the cliffs,



then the sea lions which surround the landing site.



Excitement mounts as you climb the stairs, then you start your walk. Wow! Those feet really are blue!



What’s most amazing is how unafraid even the birds are of you. I’m so used to having to whisper and creep up on animals to have any chance at a shot. Not so here. They have no mammalian predators, so don’t equate us with danger in any way. Keeping your voice down and moving slowly is still a good idea, but don’t get crazed about moving one inch a minute.

Walking around the trail, we constantly had frigate birds around us, in the trees and up in the air. The females have the white chests, while the males have the red throat.


Suddenly, at the base of a tree, there’s a flash of white. A booby chick! At this stage, their feet aren’t yet blue, but they’re sure cute and fluffy.


Then the guide points toward the greenery. As your eyes focus in, you realize there’s a face in there – a land iguana! It’s easy to picture in your mind that you’re in a prehistoric time, with the birds flying and crying overhead, and these spiny lizards at your feet.



Continuing to walk along the path, you get to more and more frigates, with the males posturing for the females. Along the way, you’re introduced to the lava lizard, which have different coloring and posturing habits on each island, and other residents such as these grasshoppers getting a bit personal and ensuring the survival of the species…

At the end of the hike (very hot this time of year), you’re back along the beach area and in and among the sea lions. The pups are crying for their moms, sunning or playing on the rocks.

At one point, we paused to watch one pup who was chasing another pup’s mother, crying and obviously trying to nurse. The mother was running away as fast as she could, herding her own pup ahead of her. There was no way to tell if the other pup was abandoned, orphaned, or if its own mother was just out hunting for an extended time and the pup got impatient. It was sad and comical at the same time.

Several times, we had to move out of the way of the pups, as the naturalists explained that the mothers identify their pups by scent, and touching us, getting our scent, or the aroma of our sunscreen or whatever, on them could cause their mothers to reject them.

Of course, the pups also quite good at posing for us.




The guides are excellent. They make sure you have plenty of time for photography, that you actually do see the camouflaged critters, and they set a comfortable pace. All along the hike, they give information about the specific island, the wildlife and their habits. I’ve found them easy to understand and extremely knowledgeable, as you’d expect.

What a first day! I can’t wait for tomorrow!